The monokini , designed by Rudi Gernreich in 1964, consisting of only a short, fitting bottom and two thin straps, was the first bare breast swimsuit. His revolutionary and controversial designs include the bottom that "extends from the top to the upper thigh" and "is supported by a shoelace strap that makes a neck strap around the neck." Some praised Gernreich's design by starting, or portraying it as a symbol, a sexual revolution.
Gernreich designed the monokini in protest against a repressive society. He initially had no intention of producing monokini commercially, but was persuaded by Susanne Kirtland from Look to make it publicly available. When the first photo of Peggy Moffitt's frontal view using the design was published on Women's Wear Daily on June 3, 1964, it generated much controversy in the United States and other countries. Gernreich sells about 3,000 suits, but only two are worn in public. The first was publicly imposed on June 22, 1964 by Carol Doda in San Francisco at Condor Nightclub, ushering in the topless nightclub era in the United States, and the second on a beach in Chicago in July 1964 by model artist Toni Lee Shelley, who was arrested.
Some manufacturers and retailers refer to the design of a modern monokini swimsuit as a topless swimsuit, a topless bikini, or this unique.
Video Monokini
Etymology
Gernreich may have chosen his use of monochini mono meaning single ) in the false belief that bikini is a compound from bi- ("bi" which means two ) and-now. But it is the wrong back-formation, decomposing it as Latin prefix bi - , and now , which shows a two-piece swimsuit. But in fact the bikini swimsuit design was named by its discoverer, Louis RÃÆ' © erard after Bikini Atoll in the Pacific, five days after Operation Crossroads, the first peaceful time test of nuclear weapons, took place there. RÃÆ'Ã… © ard hopes his design will have the same explosive effect.
Maps Monokini
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Austrian-American fashion designer Rudi Gernreich has a strong feeling about people's sexuality towards the human body and disagrees with the religious and social beliefs that the body is basically shameful. Gernreich grew up in Austria where his citizens were supporters of naked sports, a rejection of an overly civilized world. His father Siegmund Gernreich was a stocking manufacturer who committed suicide when Gernreich was 8 years old. In 1939, his mother took him and they fled from the country to escape from Hitler, which among others had banned nudity. In Los Angeles, Gernreich became a proponent of sexual liberation. He founded in 1950 the first homosexual social group to advocate for gay rights that became the Mattachine Society. He thinks the government's restraints on nudity are fascist and oppressive.
Reputation
Gernreich developed a reputation as an avant-garde designer who broke many rules, and his swimwear design was unconventional. In his December 1962 edition, Sports Illustrated commented, "He has turned the dancer's dancer into a liberating swimsuit, and in the process, he has ripped off the boning and the wires that made the American swimsuit skirt the corset." The moon it was his first to imagine creating a topless swimsuit he called monokini.
Origins
Gernreich had predicted in the September 1962 edition of Women's Wear Daily that "Bosoms will be discovered within five years." In late 1963, editor Susanne Kirtland from Look called Gernreich and asked her to submit a design for the suit to accompany the trend story along the futuristic lines. He rejected the idea at first, but said, "It was my prediction.For history, I do not want Pucci to do it first.Gernreich finds the design more difficult than expected.The initial design looks like a shorts or boxer shorts He feels the swimsuit should have been just a bikini pant but realized that this would not be a unique design. He originally designed a Balinese sarong that started just under the breast, but Kirtland did not feel the design was brave enough and needed to make more statements.Gernreich eventually chose a design that ended around mid body and then added two ropes that rose between the breasts and tied around the neck.First initial attempts to cut the design failed.The shoot is set in Montego Bay in the Bahamas, all five models hired for the session refused to wear the design.The photographer finally persuading a local prostitute to model it.
As statement
Gernreich initially did not intend to produce a commercial swimsuit. It meant more to Gernreich as an idea than as a reality. Gernreich told Moffitt to file a personal suit for Diana Vreeland of Vogue, who asked him why he understood the design. Gernreich told him that he felt it was time for "freedom in fashion and every other aspect of life," but the swimsuit was just a statement. She said, "[Women] have lowered their bikini tops," he said, "so it looks like it's the next natural step." He tells her, "If there's a photo, it's an actuality, you have to make it." Gerenrich said in a television interview: "Maybe it's a bit far away now, but just wait, in a few years, the unopened bikini will come true and be very natural."
Design image
In order not to let other people feel the swimsuit sensation and maintain control of the design, Gernreich asked William Claxton, the husband of the normally singled Gernreich Peggy Moffitt, to take a picture of his wife in a yellow wool swimsuit. Claxton, Moffitt, and Gernreich want to publish their own photos for the fashion and news press, and Gernreich gives a Moffit image that monochini models a group of carefully selected news organizations.
Moffitt initially rejected the idea of ​​posing topless. He said, "I do not want to do it when he asks me, I am a descendant of the Mayflower puritan, I bring the Plymouth Rock on my back When I give up, I do it with many rules." I will not show myself on that foundation. I just did it with Bill. Since Rudi will never have enough money to do this, I do it for free. But I have said the end everywhere it goes photographically. " Look at publish the back view of prostitutes from Montego Bay who modeled swimsuits on June 2, 1964. Claxton took photos of Moffit to Life but they said they could only print pictures, naked breasts" if the woman is a native. "Claxton takes photographs of Moffit especially for Life with his hands covering her breasts.The picture is one of several pictures of Moffit in a story about the evolution of breast history in fashion history from 1954 to 1964. Moffit said, "My photo of the problem - hiding my breasts with my hands - is dirty. If you wear a dress that does not have the top as part of its design and holds your arms over your chest, you will be along with silly things like Playboy bunny. "
Initial notification
Next day columnist Carol Bjorkman of Women's Wear Daily published Claxton's frontal view of Moffitt in the suit. It became a famous image of the design extremism of the 1960s. Moffit then said, "It's a political statement, it's not meant to be public." On June 12, 1964, the San Francisco Chronicle featured a photograph of a woman in monokini with her visible breasts on the front page. Claxton's frontal image of Moffit that modeled the swimsuit was later published by Life and many other publications. Life author Shana Alexander noted, "The funny thing about toplessness is that it really has nothing to do with the breasts.Bits certainly does not make sense, topless swimsuits.Later people keep getting two mixed things. "He taunts the swimsuit design as a" joke ". The photo catapulted Moffitt into an instant celebrity, reportedly causing him to receive everything from marriage proposals to death threats. Moffitt and Claxton later wrote The Rudy Gernreich Book , described as the aesthetic biography of revolutionary fashion.
Instant attention
"I thought we only sold six or seven, but I decided to design it." But when the design gets notified around the world, no order for setting is poured in for up to 1,000 pending orders. Despite the reaction of fashion critics and church officials, Harmon Knitwear made over 3,000 monokinis. Gernreich first sold the suit to Joseph Magnin's department store in San Francisco, where it was an instant hit. In New York City, leading stores like B. Altman & amp; Company, God & amp; Taylor, Henri Bendel, Splendiferous and Parisette ordered. On June 16, 1964, Gernreich's topless bathing suit went on sale in New York City. The suit was priced $ 24 each.
Controversy
Swimsuit as a statement
Gernreich deliberately used his design to advance his socio-political outlook. He wants to reduce the stigma of the naked body, to "heal our society from sexual relations," as he says. Gernreich states, "For me, the only respect you can give a woman is to make him a human being, a truly free woman, truly free."
Gernreich said, "Showcasing the breasts seems logical in a period of more free attitudes, a more free mind, the emancipation of women." Gernreich told Time magazine in 1969, monokini "is a natural development that grows from all loosening, reevaluating the values ​​that are going on.Now there is honestness openness, and part of this does not hide the body - it is freedom. "
Every girl I know is offended by the dirty little boy's attitude toward the American man toward the American's chest. I am aware that the great masses of the world will find this shocking and immoral person. I can not help feeling the implicit hypocrisy that makes something in one culture unscrupulous and the other so well received.
In January 1965, he told Gloria Steinem in an interview that despite criticism he would do it again.
A designer stands or falls on the totality of the collection every year, not just one item. Currently, this topless business does nothing but take away from my job, but in the end, I'm sure my name is internationally known to be a help. But that's not why I did it again. I will do it again because I think topless, by exaggerating and exaggerating new freedoms from the body, will make moderate and more appropriate levels of freedom more acceptable.
Moffitt says the design is a logical evolution of Gernreich's avant-garde ideas in swimwear design, just like the scandalous symbol of a permissive society. She said, "She's trying to get rid of the pretense, the whole bad side of sex." He said the design was "prophetic." "It has to do with more than what it will wear to the shore, it's about a changing culture across society, about freedom and emancipation.This is also a reaction to something very American: the little boy is grumbling that women have breasts."
Los Angeles Times staff writer Bettijane Levine wrote, "The nudity is an artistic statement against women as sex objects, just as Pablo Picasso painted Guernica as a declaration against war." Over the next few weeks, the design is discussed in more than 20,000 press articles.
1985 benefits show
On August 13, 1985, Los Angeles Fashion Group produced a gala at Wiltern Theater for a Rudi Gernreich Design Scholarship fund. Moffit is a member of the committee. When the group considered demonstrating Monokini's claim during the benefit, Moffitt strongly objected. He told the Los Angeles Times,
Rudi filed the lawsuit as a social statement. It's an overkill to do with arranging free women. It has nothing to do with a display, and once a person uses it to show off his body, you have abolished the whole principle of the thing. I modeled it for a photo, which is finally published worldwide, because I believe in a social statement. Also, because the three of us - Rudi, Bill, and I - feel that the photo presents an accurate statement.
Fashion Group regional director Sarah Worman believes the swimsuit is "one of the most important ideas she has ever had - that changes the way women dress throughout the Western world." He said Moffitt's refusal to show it to the model makes no sense when the benefits are modeling all the other things he has ever done on the living model.
Playboy Offers
Moffit said in 1985 that he was offered $ 17,000 in 1964 (equivalent to $ 134,000 in 2017) by Playboy to publish a picture of Claxton about him in the suit but refused. "I reject it as unthinkable and I do not want to exploit women now than it was in 1964. The statement has not changed, it's still about freedom and not a display."
Worldwide reaction
There is a strong public reaction to the original swimsuit design. The Soviet Union denounced the lawsuit, saying it was "barbarism" and indicated "capitalistic decay". The Vatican denounces swimwear, and L'Osservatore Romano says the "erotic adventure industry" swimwear topless "negates the sense of morale." Many of Rudi's contemporaries in the fashion industry reacted negatively. In the US, some Republicans are trying to blame the Democrats on democratic attitudes on moral issues. Gernreich introduced monokini when US nudists seek to form a public persona. The Postmaster General of the United States had banned the publication of nudists from the post until 1958, when the United States Supreme Court declared that the naked body itself could not be considered obscene. The use of the word monokini was first recorded in English that year.
When the lawsuit became famous, the New York City Police were strictly ordered by park commissaries to arrest women wearing monokini. In Dallas, Texas, when a local shop showed up in the display window, the members of the Carroll Avenue Baptist Mission were baptized until they released the display. Abundant coverage of the event helped to send breast pictures exposed to the world. Women's clubs and Catholic churches are actively condemning the draft. In Italy and Spain, the Catholic church warns against topless style.
In France in 1964, Roger Frey led the prosecution of the use of monokini, describing it as: "public violation of moral morality, punishable in accordance with article 330 of the penal law, and the police chief should use the service from the police so that women wearing swimsuits this is in a public place prosecuted. " Tropez on the French Riviera, where toplessness later became the norm, the mayor ordered the police to forbid toplessness and to supervise the beach through helicopters.
Jean-Luc Godard, the founder of the French New Wave film, incorporated Jacques Rozier's monokini recordings on the Riviera into his movie A Married Woman, but was edited by censors. Some of Gernreich's designs are maintained. Fashion designer Geraldine Stutz, president of Henri Bendel, said, "I just hope I'm young enough to be one of my own pioneers." Carol Bjorkman, a columnist at Women's Wear-Daily's, writes, "What's going on with the front? Anyway, here to stay, and it's fun to be a girl."
When Toni Lee Shelley, a 19-year-old artist model, wore a topless swimsuit to the North Avenue shore in Chicago, 12 police officers answered, 11 to control and disperse the public and the photographer, and one to arrest him. He was charged with irregular behavior, indecent exposure, and appeared on public beaches with no suitable clothes. At the indictment, he asked the jury who were all male. He told the press that the swimsuit was "definitely more comfortable." Shelley was fined US $ 100 for wearing a swimsuit on a public beach.
Influence
In the 1960s, monokini affected the sexual revolution by emphasizing the personal freedom of a dressed woman, even when her clothes were provocative and exposed more skin than the norm during the more conservative 1950s. Rapidly renamed "swimsuit topless," the design never worked in the United States, although the issue of allowing the same sex exposed above the waist has been raised as a feminist issue over time.
On June 22, 1964, the public relations manager of Condor Nightclub in the North Beach district of San Francisco purchased Gernreich's monoccany from Joseph Magnin and gave it to prune pickers, archivist, and waitress Carol Doda to wear for her acting. Doda is the first modern topless dancer in the United States, renewing the Twentieth Century burlesque era at San Francisco Mayor John Shelley saying, "topless is under pornography." Within days, the women flaunted their breasts at the many clubs that line up Broadway Street in San Francisco, ushering in the topless bar era. Her debut as a topless dancer was featured in Playboy magazine in April 1965.
San Francisco public officials tolerated the topless bar until April 22, 1965, when the San Francisco Police Department arrested Doda on indecent charges. Hundreds of protesters gathered outside the police department, calling for the release of Doda and freedom of speech activist Mario Savio, who was held at the same station. Doda quickly became a symbol of sexual freedom, while topless restaurants, shoeshine salons, ice cream shops and girl bands mushroomed in San Francisco and elsewhere. Journalist Earl Wilson writes in his syndicated column, "Are we ready for girls in topless dresses? Heck, we might not even notice it." British designers make topless evening dresses that are inspired by the idea. The San Francisco Examiner publishes promising real estate ads "top empty swimwear may be here".
Design later
Going topless achieved the highest popularity during the 1970s. In the early 1980s monokini designs that only bikini-bottom (also known as uniqueini ) became popular. By 2015, some swimsuit designers continue to produce various monokini swimwear or naked swimsuits that can be worn by women in private suits or in places where seamless underwear is allowed.
Unlike Gernreich's original design that exposes female breasts, the current design is a one-piece swimsuit that covers a woman's breasts but usually includes large pieces on the sides, back, or front. Cutouts are associated with various types of fabrics, including mesh, chains, and other materials to connect the top and bottom together. From behind the monokini looks like a two-piece swimsuit. The design may not be functional but aesthetically pleasing. Some settings are designed with g-string style back and others offer full coverage.
Pubicini
In 1985, four weeks before his death, Gernreich introduced the lesser-known pubikini , a topless swimsuit that exposes the wearer's pubic mons. It is a thin, V-shaped bottom, on the front showing a small piece of cloth that reveals the pubic hair of the wearer. The pubikini described as piÃÆ'¨ce de rÃÆ' Â © sistance completely free the human body.
See also
- Bikini variant
- Maillot
- Nude beach
- Nude swim
- Topfreedom
- No naked
References
External links
Media related to Monokinis on Wikimedia Commons
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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