Chanel SA ( ; French: Ã, [? a'n? l] ) is a French private company owned by Alain Wertheimer and GÃÆ' Â © rard Wertheimer, grandson of Pierre Wertheimer, who was an early business partner of Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel's
House of Chanel is known as "little black dress", no perfume. 5 de Chanel, and Chanel Suit. Chanel uses a T-shirt that produces comfortable and affordable clothing. Chanel revolutionized fashion - haute couture and everyday mode (prÃÆ'ªt-ÃÆ' -porter) - by replacing a structured silhouette, based on a corset and a bodice, with functional clothing and at the same time flattering to a female figure.
In the 1920s, the simple line design of Chanel couture made a popular "flat-chested" mode which was the reverse of the hour-figure clock achieved by the late 19th century fashion - Belle ÃÆ'â € poque of France (ca 1890-1914 ), and the English Edwardian era (circa 1901-1919). Chanel uses colors traditionally associated with masculinity in Europe, such as gray and navy blue, to show feminine characters. House of Chanel outfits feature upholstered fabrics and leather ornaments; layered construction reinforces fabric, design, and finish, producing a garment that retains its shape and function when worn. Examples of haute couture techniques such as the Chanel wool suit - knee-length skirts and cardigan-style jackets, are trimmed and embellished with black embroidery and gold-colored buttons. Complementary accessories are two-tone pump shoes and jewelry, usually pearl necklaces, and leather handbags.
Video Chanel
History
Coco Chanel Era
- Establishment and Recognition - 1909-1920s
The House of Chanel (Chanel SA) originated in 1909 when Gabrielle Chanel opened a women's clothing store on 160 Boulevard Malesherbes, the ground floor of Parisian flats of socialite and textile entrepreneur ÃÆ' â € ° tienne Balsan, among whom she is a mistress. Since the flat Balsan is also a salon for French hunting and sports, Chanel has the opportunity to meet with their concubines, who, as such, are fashion ladies, to whom the rich man show their wealth - such as ornaments, jewelry, and hats.
Coco Chanel can sell to them the hats he designed and made; Thus, he earned a living, independent of his financial sponsorship, socialite Balsan. In the course of the salons Coco Chanel befriended Arthur 'Boy' Capel, an English socialite and friend of the polo ÃÆ' â € ° tienne Balsan; per upscale social custom, Chanel is also a lover for Boy Capel. Despite such social circumstances, Boy Capel considers the business woman to be Coco Chanel's default, and, in 1910, financed his first independent women's clothing store, the Chanel Fashion, at 21 rue Cambon, Paris. Since the place is already a clothing store, Chanel is limited to selling only women hat products, not couture. Two years later, in 1913, the Deauville and Biarritz Coco Chanel couture stores offered for sale sportswear pronunciation for women, a practical design that allows the wearer to play sports.
The First World War (1914-1918) influenced European fashion through the scarcity of materials, and the mobilization of women. At that time, Chanel had opened a large clothing store at 31 rue Cambon, near the HÃÆ'Â'tel Ritz, in Paris; among the clothing sold are flannel blazers, linen straight skirts, sailor blouses, long sweaters made of jersey material, and jacket and jacket coats.
Coco Chanel uses a T-shirt because of his physical properties as a garment, like a lid - how he falls and falls from a woman's body - and how well he adapts to a simple garment design. In theory, some Chanel designs come from military uniforms made common by the War; and, by 1915, the designs and clothing produced by the House of Chanel were known throughout France.
In 1915 and 1917, Harper's Bazaar reported that House of Chanel clothing was "on every buyer's list" for clothing factories in Europe. The Chanel dress shop at 31 rue Cambon features a day-to-day dress-and-coat with a simple design, and a lace-trimmed black night gown; and a tulle-fabric dress adorned with jet, a small gemstone material.
After the First World War, House of Chanel, following the fashion trends of the 1920s, produced a beaded dress, which was made very popular by Flapper ladies. In 1920, Chanel had designed and presented women's clothing apparel - composed of two garments or three garments - allowing a woman to have a modern and feminine look, while comfortable and practical to maintain; advocated as "new uniform for day and night", it became known as Chanel Suit .
In 1921, to complete the clothing suit, Coco Chanel commissioned Ernest Beaux's perfume to make perfume for House of Chanel, her perfume including the No.5 perfume, named after Chanel's most preferred sample. Initially, a bottle of No 5 de Chanel was a gift to a Chanel client. The popularity of perfume prompted the House of Chanel to offer it for retail sales in 1922.
In 1923, to explain the success of his outfit, Coco Chanel told the Harper's Bazaar magazine that designing "simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance."
- Business partners - late 1920s
The success of Number 5 prompted Coco Chanel to expand sales of perfumes outside France and Europe and develop other perfumes - which he needed investment capital, business acumen, and access to the North American market. To that end, the entrepreneur ThÃÆ' Â © ophile Bader (founder of Galeries Lafayette) introduced venture capitalist Pierre Wertheimer to Coco Chanel. Their business deal establishes a Parfums Chanel company, a parfumerie where Wertheimer owns 70 percent, Bader has 20 percent, and Chanel owns 10 percent; the commercial success of the joint venture was secured by the name Chanel, and by the la la "Maison Chanel", which remains the only province of Coco Chanel business.
Despite the success of Chanel's couture and parfumerie, the personal relationship between Coco and his capitalist partners is worsening, because, Coco says that Pierre Wertheimer exploits his talent as a fashion designer and as an entrepreneur. Wertheimer reminded Chanel that he had made her a very rich woman; and that its business capital has funded Chanel's productive expansion of the parfumerie that creates the wealth they enjoy, all from the success of No. 5 de Chanel.
Unsatisfied, however, businessman Gabrielle Chanel hired a RenÃÆ'Â © de Chambrun lawyer to renegotiate the 10 percent partnership he entered, in 1924, with Chanel Parfums company; lawyer-to-lawyer negotiations failed, and the percentage of partnership remained as stipulated in the original business deal between Wertheimer, Badel and Chanel.
- Elegance and war - 1930s-1940s
From the 1920s gamine mode, Coco Chanel has evolved into a women's clothing model in the 1930s: the design of the evening gown is characterized by an elongated feminine style, and the summer dress features contrasts such as silver eyes, and shoulder straps adorned with rhinestones - image of the Renaissance-time Stylings mode. In 1932, Chanel presented a jewelry exhibition dedicated to diamonds as fashion accessories; it featured the Comet and Fountain diamond necklaces, which were such original designs, which Chanel SA repeated them in 1993. In addition, in 1937, the House of Chanel has widened her range of clothing to more women and presented clothing designed and cut for the tiny woman. Among fashion designers, only clothing made by Elsa Schiaparelli can compete with Chanel's outfit.
During the Second World War (1939-45), Coco Chanel closed the shop at Maison Chanel - leaving only jewelry and sales for sale - and moved to HÃÆ'Â'tel Ritz Paris, where he lived with his girlfriend, Hans GÃÆ'¼nther von Dincklage, an intelligence officer Nazi. After conquering France in June 1940, the Nazis established the Parisian occupation headquarters at HÃÆ'Â'tel Meurice, on rue de la Rivoli, opposite the Louvre Museum, and just around the corner from the fashionable Maison Chanel SA, at 31 rue Cambon.
Meanwhile, since the Nazi occupation anti-Semitism, Pierre Wertheimer and his family, had flown France to the US, in mid-1940. Then, in 1941, Coco Chanel sought to assume control of Chanel's Parfums business but was thwarted by an administrative delegation banning the one- only from parfumerie . After predicting the Nazi occupation policy of seizure and expropriation to Germany from Jewish business and assets in France, Pierre Wertheimer, a major partner, earlier, in May 1940, appointed Felix Amiot, a French Christian industrialist, the "Arya" Proxy whose legal control Chanel Parfums business proved politically accepted by the Nazis, who then allowed the perfume company to continue as an operating business.
The French occupation is full of rumors that Coco Chanel was a Nazi collaborator; His underground identity was a 7124 secret agent from Abwehr, code-named "Westminster". Thus, on the orders of General Walter Schellenberg, of Sicherheitsdienst, Chanel was sent to London with a mission to communicate with British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, the special points of the "separate peace" plan proposed by > ReichsfÃÆ'¼hrer-SS Heinrich Himmler, who tried to avoid surrendering to the Soviet Russian Red Army.
At the end of the War, after the liberation of the French allies, Chanel was arrested for collaborating with the Nazis. In September 1944, the French Free Cleansing Committee pursued Chanel for interrogation of his collaboration, however, without documentary or witness evidence for his collaboration with the Nazis, and because of Churchill's secret intervention on his behalf, < i> ÃÆ' Â © puration free Coco Chanel from capture as a traitor to France. Despite being liberated by Churchill's political blessing, the hearsay power of the Nazi Chanel collaboration has made it impossible for him to remain in France; so Coco Chanel and his German lover, Hans GÃÆ'¼nther von Dincklage, went into exile for eight years to Switzerland.
In the post-war period, during Swiss exile from Switzerland, Pierre Wertheimer returned to Paris and regained official administrative control over the ownership of his family business - including the control of Parfums Chanel, parfumerie founded with venture capital, and success Chanel's name.
In Switzerland, the news rekindled Coco Chanel's disappointment for being exploited by his business partner, only ten percent of the money. So he set up a rival Swiss parfumerie to create, produce, and sell his he "Chanel perfume". In turn, Wertheimer, the majority shareholder of Parfums Chanel's capital, saw his business interests threatened, and his commercial rights were violated because he did not have any exclusive legal rights on behalf of Chanel. Nevertheless, Wertheimer avoids a trademark infringement lawsuit against Coco Chanel, not to undermine the commercial reputation and artistic credibility of its Chanel-brand parfumerie .
Wisely, Pierre Wertheimer settled his business and commercial rights with Chanel, and, in May 1947, they renegotiated the 1924 contract that established Chanel Parfums - he paid $ 400,000 in cash (wartime profit from the sale of perfume No. 5 de Chanel); commissioned a 2.0 percent royalty from sales No. 5 parfumerie ; assigned limited commercial rights to sell he "Chanel perfume" in Switzerland; and is given a perennial monthly salary that pays all his expenses. Instead, Gabrielle Chanel closed her Swiss parfumerie company, and sold to Chanel full rights Parfums on behalf of "Coco Chanel".
- The Resurrection - 1950s-1970s
In 1953, after returning to France from Switzerland, Coco Chanel found a fashion business captivated by the "New Look" (1947), by Christian Dior; the signature shape features long under-calf, full skirt, narrow waist, and large breasts (stylistically absent since 1912). As a postwar mode that uses about 20 yards of cloth, the House of Dior couture leaves a ration of cloth for clothing.
In 1947 - after a six-year fighting of the Second World War (1939-45) - New Views were welcomed by Western European fashion business because the sale of beautiful clothing will revive business and economy.
To regain the primacy of the House of Chanel business, in the fashion field of haute couture, prÃÆ'ªt-ÃÆ' -porter , imitation jewelry, and parfumerie , will be expensive ; so Chanel approached Pierre Wertheimer for business and capital advice. Having decided to do business with Coco Chanel, Wertheimer's negotiations to fund the resurrection of the House of Chanel, gave him commercial rights to all Chanel branded products.
In 1953, Chanel collaborated with jeweler Robert Goossens; he designed jewelry (jewelry and gemstones) to complement the Chanel House outfit; especially, the long black pearl necklace and white pearl, which high contrast soften the severe design of Chanel Suit knitting wool (skirt and cardigan jacket).
Chanel's homes also feature leather bags with gold chains or metal-and-leather chains, which allow carrying handbags from the shoulders or in hands. The layered leather bag was presented to the public in February 1955. In-house, the numerical version of the launch date of "2.55" for the bag series became an internal "designation" for the leather-lined handbag model.
Throughout the 1950s, Chanel's style continued to be unaffected; the company's initial venture into masculine parfumerie , Pour Monsieur is a successful eau de toilette for men. Chanel and his spring collection received the Fashion Oscar at the 1957 Fashion Awards in Dallas. Pierre Wertheimer bought a 20 percent stake in Bader from Parfums Chanel, which increased the percentage of Wertheimer to 90 percent.
Then, in 1965, Pierre's son, Jacques Wertheimer, assumed his father's management of the parfumerie . About past business relationships between Pierre Wertheimer and Coco Chanel, Chanel's lawyer Chambrun said it was "based on the entrepreneur's desire, despite his misplaced sense of exploitation... [when] back to Paris, full of pride and joy [ after one of his horses won the 1956 English Derby.] He rushed to Coco, hoping for congratulations and praise, but he refused to kiss him, he hated him, you see, all his life. "
Coco Chanel died on January 10, 1971, at the age of 87. He was still designing at the time of his death. For example, during the period (1966-1969), he designed the stewardess uniform for Olympic Airways, the designer who followed it was Pierre Cardin. At the time, Olympic Airways was a luxury airline, owned by the transportation king Aristotle Onassis. After his death, the leadership of the company was handed over to Yvonne Dudel, Jean Cazaubon and Philippe GuibourgÃÆ'Â ©.
After some time, Jacques Wertheimer bought a control interest from the House of Chanel. Critics claim that during his leadership he never paid great attention to the company, as he was more interested in horse farming. In 1974, House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, designed when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture line, prÃÆ'ªt-ÃÆ' -porter and accessory distribution worldwide.
Alain Wertheimer, son of Jacques Wertheimer, took control of Chanel S.A. in 1974. In the US, No. 5 de Chanel is not in demand. Alain overhauled Chanel No.5 sales by reducing the number of stores carrying the scent from 18,000 to 12,000. She removed perfume from the drugstore shelf and invested millions of dollars in advertising for Chanel cosmetics. This ensures a greater sense of scarcity and exclusivity for No.5, and sales skyrocket as demand for aromas increases. He uses famous people to support the perfume - from Marilyn Monroe to Audrey Tautou. Looking for a designer who could bring the label to new heights, he persuaded Karl Lagerfeld to terminate his contract with the fashion house ChloÃÆ'Â ©.
Post Coco era
In 1981, Chanel launched Antaeus, an eau de toilette for men. In 1983 Karl Lagerfeld took over as chief designer for Chanel. Like Chanel, he looks to the past as an inspiration for his design. He inserted Chanel's cloth and detailed it like wool, gold accents, and chains. Lagerfeld keeps what is a signature for Chanel but also helps bring the brand to today.
In subsequent collections Lagerfeld chose to break away from the graceful look of Chanel and start experimenting with fabrics and styles. During the 1980s, more than 40 Chanel boutiques were opened worldwide. In the late 1980s, boutiques sold items ranging from perfume US $ 200 per ounce, ballerina sandals for US $ 225 to dress US $ 11,000 and leather bag for US $ 2,000. Chanel cosmetics and fragrances are distributed only by Chanel outlets. Chanel marketer Jean Hoehn explains the company's approach, saying, "We introduce new fragrances every 10 years, not every three minutes like many competitors.We do not confuse consumers.By Chanel, people know what to expect And they keep coming back to us, at of all ages, as they enter and leave the market. "The launch of a new fragrance in 1984, in honor of the founder, Coco , continued the label's success. In 1986, House of Chanel made a deal with the watchmaker and in 1987, Chanel's first watch debuted. By the end of the decade, Alain moved the office to New York City.
Maison de Chanel increased the wealth of the Wertheimer family to $ 5 billion USD. Sales were hurt by the recession of the early 1990s, but Chanel recovered in the mid-1990s with further boutique expansion.
In 1994, Chanel had a net profit equivalent to EUR67 million for the sale of EUR570 million in ready-made clothing and was France's most profitable fashion house.
In 1996, Chanel bought the Dutch arms maker & amp; Holland, but failed in his attempt to change the company. It launched Allure perfumes in 1996 and Allure Homme in 1998. Eres swimwear labels were purchased. House of Chanel launched its first skin care line, Prà © cuition, in 1999. That same year, Chanel launched a travel collection, and under a license contract with Luxottica, introduced a line of sunglasses and eyeglass frames.
While Wertheimer remains chairman, FranÃÆ'§oise Montenay becomes CEO and President. 2000 saw the launch of the first unisex watch by Chanel, J12. In 2001, Bell & amp; Ross was acquired. That same year, Chanel boutiques only offer a selection of accessories that opened in the United States. Chanel launched a small number of menswear as part of their runway show.
In 2002, Chanel launched Chance and Paraffection perfumes, a subsidiary company founded in 1997 to support artisanal manufacturing, which gathered together with Ateliers d'Art or workshops including Desrues for ornaments and buttons, LemariÃÆ'Â to feathers, Lesage for embroidery, Massaro for shoemaking and Michel for women's hats. A collection of prÃÆ'ªt-ÃÆ' -porter was designed by Karl Lagerfeld.
In July 2002, jewelry outlets and watches opened on Madison Avenue. Within a few months, the 1,000-square-foot shoe boutique (90 m) stands next to it. Chanel continued to expand in the United States and in December 2002, operates 25 US boutiques.
Chanel introduced Coco Mademoiselle and "In-Between Wear" in 2003, targeting younger women, opened a second shop on Rue Cambon, opened 2,400 square feet (220 m 2 ) boutiques in Hong Kong and paid almost $ 50 million USD for a building in Ginza, Tokyo.
Maps Chanel
Corporate identity
Logotype
Logotype Chanel consists of two letters supporting, opposite-C, one facing left, one facing right. This type of logo was given to Chanel by ChÃÆ' ° ngà © de Crà © à © mat, Nice, and was not registered as a trademark until the first Chanel stores were established. Together with other makers, Chanel is a target for counterfeiters. China is a major supplier. Authentic classic Chanel handbags sell for about US $ 4,150, while counterfeit money usually costs around US $ 200. Beginning in the 1990s, all original Chanel bags were numbered.
Labels
Trademark
One time measurement for Chanel's presence in the United States is through registered trademarks at the United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO). On Tuesday, November 18, 1924, Chanel, Inc. filed a trademark application for the Chanel and for the CC interlocking plus word mark design. At that time, the trademark was registered only for perfumes, toiletries, and cosmetic products in the main classes of common metals and alloys. Chanel gives a description of powder, perfume, eau de cologne, toilet water, lip stick, and rouge, to the USPTO. The Chanel brand and the double-C trademark were granted on the same date February 24, 1925 with Series No. 71205468 and 71205469. The first trademark application for No. 5 perfume on Thursday, April 1, 1926, described as perfume and toilet water. The first use and commercial use expressed as January 1, 1921. Registration was granted on July 20, 1926 with Serie Number 71229497.
Products
Runways
Gallery
Fragrance
In 1924, Pierre Wertheimer founded Chanel Parfums, to produce and sell perfumes and cosmetics; parfumerie proved to be the most profitable business division of Chanel S.A company. Since its foundation, Chanel has employed four perfumes:
- Ernest Beaux (1920-1961)
- Henri Robert (1958-1978)
- Jacques Polge (1978-2015)
- Olivier Polge (2015-Now)
Perfume
-
- Allure EDP
- Allure EDT
- Allure Eau Sensuelle EDP
- Allure Eau Sensuelle EDT
- Opportunities
- Opportunities
- Eau Vive Opportunity
- Eau Fraiche Opportunity
- Chance Eau Tendre - Jacque Polge developed Chance Eau Tendre to display flowers and fruits and notes, among them grapefruit, quince, hyacinth, jasmine, amber, cedar, iris, and white musk.
- Coco
- Coco Mademoiselle - British actress Keira Knightley, a spokesperson for Coco Mademoiselle's scent, portrays the young Coco Chanel in a short film ad directed by Joe Wright.
- Coco Noir
- Cristalle
- Cristalle Eau Verte
- No. 5 - No. 5 The film, about Nicole Kidman, with whom the author of anonymous aspirations (Rodrigo Santoro) becomes captivated; after that, the fragrant memory belongs to him. In 2008, model and actress from France, Audrey Tautou became the face of Perfume No. 3. 5. 2012 marks the first year that a man - actor Brad Pitt - represents a woman's fragrance. Bottle stoppers, cut like diamonds, supposedly inspired by the geometry of Place Vendà © me in Paris.
- No. 19
- No. 19 Poudre
- Les Exclusifs
- 1932
- 28 La Pausa - Named La Pausa, Chanel villa on the French Riviera.
- 31 Rue Cambon
- Beige
- Bel Respiro
- Bois des Iles
- Coromandel
- Eau de Cologne
- GardÃÆ' Â © nia
- Jersey
- No 18
- No 22
- Sycomore
- 1932
- Jersey
- Cuir De Russie
- Misia
- Boy Chanel
Colognes
-
- Allure pour Homme
- Allure pours Homme Sport
- Allure pours Homme Eau Extreme
- Allure pours Homme Cologne Sport
- Antaeus
- Bleu de Chanel
- ÃÆ' â € ° goÃÆ'¯ste
- Platinum ÃÆ' â € ° goÃÆ'¯ste
- Bleu De Chanel Eau de Toilette
- Bleu De Chanel Eau de Parfum
- Pour Monsieur
Makeup and skin care
Cosmetics is the most accessible Chanel product, with counters in department stores around the world, including Harrods, Galeries Lafayette, Bergdorf Goodman, Hudson's Bay, and David Jones, Wojooh, John Lewis, Debenhams, Boots and beauty boutiques.
Product line
- Hydra Beauty
- And Putih
- Le Lift
- Sublimation
- Blue Serum
- La Solusi 10 de Chanel
Perhiasan bagus
Chanel 'High Jewelery' was founded in November 1932. Chanel debuted 'Bijoux de Diamants' in Faubourg Saint-Honorà ©, Paris's grand home. In 2012, the company created a special collection to celebrate the Diamant's 80th birthday. Current collections include High Jewelry, Camelia, Comete, Baroque, 1932, Ultra, Bridal and Watch Watch.
Watch
The Chanel watch division was established in 1987. In 1995, the division presented the second design, MatelassÃÆ'Â © . Although the PremiÃÆ'¨re and MatelassÃÆ' Â © watch is a successful product, the presentation, in 2000, of the Chanel J12 line of unisex style watches , made of ceramic material, established Chanel watches as Chanel marque. J12 line watches feature models in four face-dial sizes: (i) 33mm., (Ii) 38mm., (Iii) 41mm, and (iv) 42mm. In 2008, Chanel S.A. and Audemars Piguet develops Chanel AP-3125 clockwise, exclusively for House of Chanel.
Show
At Paris Fashion Week, Chanel presented the Spring 2016 line on the airport-themed runway.
Shop
Worldwide, Chanel S.A. operates around 310 Chanel boutiques; 94 in Asia, 70 in Europe, 10 in the Middle East, 128 in North America, 1 in Central America, 2 in South America, and 6 in Oceania. The stores are located in rich communities, usually in department stores such as Harrods and Selfridges, high streets, shopping districts, and inside the airport. The company recently paid $ 152 million, or more than $ 13,000 per square foot for 11,500 square feet at 400 North Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. This is the most expensive amount paid for retail space in Los Angeles since the record set in 2012 at $ 10,400 per square foot in 2012.
Gallery
Chanel Model
See also
- Belle ÃÆ' â € ° poque
- Chanel Pink's Dress from Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy
References
External links
- Chanel homepage
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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