Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent ( French: Ã, [iv s ?? l ?? August 1, 1936 - June 1, 2008), professionally known as Yves Saint-Laurent , is a French fashion designer who, in 1961, established his reputable fashion label. He is considered one of the leading fashion designers in the 20th century. In 1985, Caroline Rennolds Milbank wrote, "The most consistent and influential designer of the past twenty-five years, Yves Saint Laurent can be credited with spurring the rise of couture from the 1960s of his ashes and finally making it ready-to-wear. "He was able to adjust his style to accommodate the changing of fashion during that period. She approaches fashion in a different perspective by wanting women to look comfortable but elegant at the same time. She is also credited with introducing a tuxedo suit for women and is known for her using non-European cultural references, and non-white models.
Video Yves Saint Laurent (designer)
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Saint Laurent was born on August 1, 1936, in Oran, Algeria France, to Charles and Lucienne Andrà ©  © e Mathieu-Saint-Laurent. She grew up in a villa in the Mediterranean with her two younger sisters, MichÃÆ'¨le and Brigitte. Saint Laurent loves to make elaborate paper puppets, and in his early teens he designed gowns for his mother and sister. At the age of 17, Saint Laurent moved to Paris and enrolled at Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture , where his design was quickly notified. Michel De Brunhoff, editor of French Vogue, introduced Saint Laurent to designer Christian Dior, a giant in the fashion world. "Dior fascinates me," Saint Laurent recalls. "I can not speak in front of him, he taught me the basics of my art, whatever happens next, I never forget the years I spent at his side." Under Dior's guidance, Saint Laurent's style continues to mature and gets more notices.
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Personal life and career
Young designer
In 1953, Saint Laurent submitted three sketches to a contest for a young fashion designer hosted by the International Wool Secretariat. Saint Laurent won first place. Subsequently, he was invited to attend the awards ceremony held in Paris in December of the same year. During his stay in Paris, Saint Laurent met Michel de Brunhoff (then editor of French edition magazine Vogue and his father's connection). De Brunhoff, known by some as an attentive person who encouraged new talent, was impressed by the sketch Saint Laurent brought with him and advised him to be a fashion designer. Saint Laurent will eventually consider a course at Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the board that governs the haute couture industry and provides training to its employees. Saint Laurent followed his advice and, leaving Oran to Paris after graduation, began studying there and eventually graduated as a stellar student. Later that same year, he entered the International Wol Secretariat competition again and won, beating his friend Fernando SÃÆ'¡nchez and young German student Karl Lagerfeld. Shortly after his victory, he brought a number of sketches to de Brunhoff who recognized a close resemblance to the sketch he had shown that morning by Christian Dior. Knowing that Dior had created the sketch that morning and that the young man could not see it, de Brunhoff sent him to Dior, who hired him on the spot.
Although Dior acknowledged his talent immediately, Saint Laurent spent his first year at the House of Dior on worldly duties, such as decorating the studio and designing accessories. Finally, however, he was allowed to submit sketches for the couture collection; with every passing season, more sketches are accepted by Dior. In August 1957, Dior met with Saint Laurent's mother to tell him that he had chosen Saint Laurent to replace him as a designer. His mother later said that he had been confused by the remark, because Dior was only 52 years old at the time. Both he and his son were shocked when in October of that year Dior died at a health spa in northern Italy due to a massive heart attack.
In 1957, Saint Laurent found himself at the age of 21 chief designer of the House of Dior. The 1958 spring collection almost certainly saved the company from financial ruin; the straight line of his creation, the gentle version of Dior's New Look, cast him into an international star with what came to be known as the "trapeze dress." Other people included in the collection are dresses with narrow shoulders and blazing softly at the bottom. At this time, he shortened his family name to Saint Laurent because the international press found the triple name hyphenated that is difficult to spell.
His fall 1958 collection was not greeted with the same level of approval as his first collection, and his next collection for House of Dior featuring skating skirts and beatnik modes was teased by the press.
In 1959, he was elected by Farah Diba, who was a student in Paris, to design his wedding dress for his marriage with the Shah of Iran.
In 1960, Saint Laurent found himself conscripted to serve in the French Army during the Algerian War of Independence. Alice Rawsthorn writes that there was speculation at the time that Marcel Boussac, the owner of the House of Dior and a powerful press baron, had been pressuring the government not to conscript Saint Laurent in 1958 and 1959, but after a disastrous 1960 season, requested that the designer be required so that he can be replaced.
Compulsory writes, disease and independence
Saint Laurent was in the military for 20 days before the frenzied stress by his fellow soldiers caused him to be hospitalized in military hospitals, where he received news that he had been fired from Dior. This worsened his condition, and he was transferred to the military hospital of Val-de-GrÃÆ'Ã ¢ ce, where he was given a large and psychoactive dose of sedation, and underwent electrical shock therapy. Saint Laurent himself traces the origins of his current mental and addictive problems at the hospital.
After being released from hospital in November 1960, Saint Laurent sued Dior for breaking the contract and winning. After the recovery period, he and his partner, industrialist Pierre Bergà © Å ©, started their own fashion house Yves Saint Laurent YSL with funds from American millionaire J. Mack Robinson. The couple split romantically in 1976 but remained a business partner.
In the 1960s and 1970s, the company popularized fashion trends such as the beatnik display; safari jackets for men and women; tights; tall, thigh-high boots; and arguably the most famous classic tuxedo suit for women in 1966, Le Smoking. The 1965 Mondrian Collection is well known. Saint Laurent also began mainstreaming the idea of ​​wearing silhouettes from the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s. Jesus Saint Laurent brought new changes to the fashion industry in the 60s and 70s. The French designer opened his YSL Rive Gauche Pret-a-Porter Home in 1967 where he began to shift his focus from Haute Couture to Ready-to-wear. One goal is to provide more fashionable styles available to choose from in the market because they are affordable and cheaper.
He was the first French couturier to come out with a full ready-to-wear prestige line, though Alicia Drake praised this move with the hope of Saint Laurent to democratize mode; others indicate that other couture houses are setting up the prÃÆ'ªt-ÃÆ' -porter path at the same time - House of Yves Saint Laurent just announces the line first. The first of the company's Rive Gauche stores, which sold the prÃÆ'ªt-ÃÆ' -porter line, opened on rue de Tournon in Paris's 6th arrondissement on September 26, 1966. The first customer was Catherine Deneuve.
Many of his collections were received positively by his fans and the press, such as the fall collection of 1965, which introduced a specially designed tuxedo suit. Other collections raised controversy, such as the spring collection of 1971, inspired by the fashion of the 1940s. Some feel that it romanticized the German occupation of France during World War II, which he did not experience, while others felt it brought back unattractive uses at the time. French newspaper France Soir calls the spring collection of 1971 "Une grande farce!"
During the 1960s and 1970s, Saint Laurent was regarded as one of the "jet sets" in Paris. He is often seen in clubs in France and New York City, such as Regine's and Studio 54, and is known as a heavy drinker and often a cocaine user. When he was not actively supervising the preparation of the collection, he spent time in his villa in Marrakech, Morocco. In the late 1970s, he and BergÃÆ' Â © bought a neo-gothic villa, ChÃÆ' Â ¢ teau Gabriel in Benerville-sur-Mer, near Deauville, France. Yves Saint Laurent is a great admirer of Marcel Proust who is often a guest of Gaston Gallimard, one of the previous villa owners. When they purchased the Château Gabriel, Saint Laurent and BergÃÆ'Â © commissioned Jacques Grange to decorate it with a theme inspired by Prob's Remembrance of Things Past.
The prÃÆ'ªt-ÃÆ' -porter line became very popular with the public if not with criticism and ended up getting many more times for Saint Laurent and BergÃÆ' Â © than the haute couture line. However, Saint Laurent, whose health has been crucial for years, becomes uncertain under pressure to design two haute coutures and two prÃÆ'ªt-ÃÆ' -porter collections each year. He is increasingly turning to alcohol and drugs. At some events, he can barely walk on the runway at the end of the show, and he should be supported by the model.
After the devastating 1987 <à -prÃÆ'ªt-ÃÆ' -porter event in New York City, which featured a $ 100,000 USD casual jacket just days after the black Monday stock market crash, he handed over responsibility > PrÃÆ'ªt-ÃÆ' -porter to his assistant. Although the line remained popular with his fans, it was immediately dismissed as "boring" by the press.
Next life
In 1983, Saint Laurent became the first living fashion designer to be honored by the Metropolitan Art Museum with a solo exhibition. In 2001, he was awarded the rank of Commander LÃÆ' Â © gion d'Honneur by French president Jacques Chirac. Saint Laurent retired in 2002 and became increasingly closed, living in his home in Normandy and Morocco with his French Bulldog dog Moujik .
He also created a foundation with BergÃÆ' Â © in Paris to trace the history of the YSL house, complete with 15,000 objects and 5,000 pieces of clothing.
As a favorite amongst female clients, Saint Laurent has many reflections that inspire his work. The lead among them is Victoire Doutreleau along with Mounia - her "bride" and "Porgy and Bess" couture dress models and YSL cover models that are often used in Women's Wear Daily and French Vogue. Among other muses are Loulou de la Falaise, daughter of a French and Anglo-Irish marquis model; Somalia Supermodel, Faith, whom he once described as "the woman of his dreams"; Betty Catroux, the Brazilian daughter of a diplomat and the wife of a French decorator; French actress Catherine Deneuve; Dutch actress Talitha Pol-Getty; Nicole Dorier, YSL's top model from 1978-1983, who became one of his assistants in organizing runway performances and, later, the "memory" of his home when it became a museum; Senegalese Senegalese supermarket, Katoucha Niane; Togolese-born supermodel Rebecca Ayoko and supermodel Laetitia Casta, who became the bride on her show in 1997-2002.
In 2007, he was awarded the rank of Grand officier de la LÃ © gion d'honneur by French President Nicolas Sarkozy.
Death
Saint Laurent died on June 1, 2008, brain cancer at his residence in Paris. According to The New York Times, a few days earlier, he and BergÃÆ' © had joined in a same-sex civil union known as the Pacte civil de solidarità ©  © (PACS) in France. When Saint Laurent was diagnosed as a terminal, with only a week or two left to live, Bergà © Ã… © and the doctor decided that it would be better for him not to know the forthcoming deaths. BergÃÆ' © said, "I have confidence that Yves will not be strong enough to receive it." Saint Laurent was raised by his mother and sister; his father died in 1988.
Saint Laurent was given a Catholic burial in the ÃÆ' â € ° glise Saint-Roch in Paris. Present funerals include former Iranian queen Farah Pahlavi, Bernadette Chirac, Catherine Deneuve, and President Nicolas Sarkozy and his wife Carla Bruni.
His body was cremated and his ashes scattered in Marrakech, Morocco, in the Majorelle Garden, residence and botanical garden he owned with BergÃÆ' © since 1980 and frequently visited to find inspiration and protection. Bergà © on said at the funeral: "But I also know that I will never forget what I have and that one day I will join you under a Moroccan palm tree" (translated from French).
Legacy
In February 2009, a 733 auction of goods held by Christie's at the Grand Palais, ranging from Picasso paintings to ancient Egyptian statues. Saint Laurent and BergÃÆ'Â © started collecting works of art in the 1950s; before the sale, BergÃÆ' Â © commented that the decision to sell the collection was taken because, without Saint Laurent, "has lost most of its significance", with the proposed results for the creation of a new foundation for AIDS research.
Before the sale began, the Chinese government tried to stop the sale of two of the twelve heads of bronze statues taken from the Old Summer Palace in China during the Second Opium War. A French judge dismissed claims and statues, rabbit and mouse heads, sold for EUR15,745,000. However, an anonymous buyer reveals himself as Cai Mingchao, a representative of China's National Treasury Fund, and claims that he will not pay for them on "moral and patriotic grounds". The head remains in possession of BergÃÆ'Â © until acquired by FranÃÆ'§ois Pinault, owner of many luxury brands including Yves Saint Laurent. He then donated it to China in a ceremony on 29 June 2013.
On the first day of sales, Henri Matisse's painting Les Coucous, bleu et rose tatis broke the previous world record in 2007 for Matisse's work and sold for 32 million euros. Sales of this record breaking has been realized 342.5 million euros (307 million pounds). The next auction, November 17-20, includes 1,185 items from the couple's Norman villa, not as impressive as the first auction, and featuring the last Mercedes-Benz car of Hermione's designer and suitcase.
In popular culture
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References
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Source of the article : Wikipedia
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