Black tie , sometimes known in the English-speaking world with its French name cravate noire , is a dress code for evening events and social functions derived from the convention of the English and American costume of the century -19. For men, the main elements of a black tie are white shirts with black bow ties, night vests or belts, and dinner jackets (called tuxedos in the United States).
Usually only used for events after 6 pm, black tie is less formal than white tie but more formal than informal or business clothing. May be charged for private dinners, balls, and parties.
Video Black tie
Male standard
For men, the black tie elements are:
- White shirt
- black butterfly tie
- Night vest or night cummerbund
- Dinner jacket (called a tuxedo in the United States), from black or midnight blue wool, where the collar of a jacket and knitted trousers is made of silk or other contrast material
- Oxford black boots (no brogueing) or patent leather pumps.
Maps Black tie
Female standards
Women's dresses for black tie shows have varied greatly over the years; Traditionally it is:
- night shoes
- dinner (ankle) or tea (under mid calf) long sleeveless evening gowns, often accompanied by:
- wrap or steal and Gloves
Today women dressed for a black tie show include a much broader level of formalities ranging from just below the standard white tie to something more informal like a small black dress. In particular it could also include:
- Shoes night and
- Ballgown gown, evening dress, or cocktail dress. Cocktail dresses can be long or short enough and do not need to be black.
- In the UK, night slacks with palazzo pieces are another acceptable option.
Unlike the standard men, the black tie specs for women are related to any evening outfits that are currently in fashion.
History
The first record of a dinner jacket is the 1865 record in Henry Poole's big book & amp; Co., of an order placed by Prince of Wales and King Edward VII's future for a midnight blue short jacket. In the subsequent decades of the Victorian era, the dinner jacket (tuxedo in American English) became fashionable as a less formal alternative to the caudate suit worn by the upper-class men every night. So it was worn with a standard companion for the night-tailed suit at the time: matching pants, white or black vest, white butterfly tie, white-collar formal shirt removed and black formal shoes. Collars are often faced or edged silk or satin in a wide variety. The dinner jacket is considered from the first less formal than the full dress (cutaway tailcoat) and the etiquette guides state it is inappropriate for use in mixed companies.
During the Edwardian era, the practice of wearing black vest and black bow tie with a dinner jacket became a convention, setting the base of the current black tie and the white tie dress code. Dinner jackets are also increasingly accepted on less formal occasions such as warm weather encounters or intimate dinners with friends.
After World War I, the dinner jacket became de facto evening wear, while the late-tailed suit was limited to very formal or ceremonial occasions. During this interwar period, double-breasted jackets, artificial collar shirts and belts became popular for black night ties as do white and colored jackets in warm weather.
In the decades after World War II, black tie became a special occasion outfit rather than a standard evening outfit. In the 1950s, colored and patterned jackets, belts and bow ties and narrow collars became very popular; In the 1960s and 1970s, color palettes moved from dim light to bright lights and pastels, as well as faded shirts as the collar became wider and the piping revived. The 1980s and 1990s returned to nostalgic style, with black jackets and trousers becoming almost universal. The 21st century has experienced an increase in the variation and relaxation of previous tight standards; midnight blue color once again becomes a popular surface and lapel is sometimes reduced to a wide curve.
Traditionally, a black tie (in contrast to a formal white tie) is considered informal. In the 21st century black ties are often referred to as semi-formal.
Black tie elements
Unlike a white tie, which is very tightly arranged, the black ensemble can show more variety. In short, the traditional components for men are:
- Jackets with silk lining (usually grosgrain or satin) on collar shawls, stumped collars or lapel collars. Many stylist and writers today see rivet collars as less formal even though they (like peaking and scarves) are used (though somewhat rare) in some early forms of garment.
- Pants with a silk or satin braid covering the outer layer, not faked and worn with braces.
- Low black vest or belt.
- A white shirt (marcella or traditional pleated bib) with a double (or "french") cuff and a support collar. While turndown is the most appropriate semi-formal, the attached wing collar has been popular among American men since the 1980s. However, many authority styles argue that the attached version now usually offered is not substantial with very small wings and is not exactly paired with soft fold fronts.
- A black silk tie that matches the surface of the collar.
- Buttons and cuffs. Some classical etiquette authorities restrict buttons to rigid marcella-front shirts only and prescribe pearl buttons for the soft-front model instead.
- Black dress stockings, usually of silk or fine wool
- Black shoes - traditionally patent leather court boots (pumps); now often highly polished or Oxford patent leather instead.
Jacket
The original and most formal dinner jacket model is a single-breasted model. A typical single-breasted black-tie jacket with just one button, with a jetted bag (besom) and black or midnight blue; usually of wool or wool-mohair, or a mixture of wool-polyester, although other materials, especially silk, are visible. Although other materials are used, the most appropriate and traditional for a dinner jacket is west wool or prima herringbone. The double breasted model is less common, but is considered equally appropriate. The dinner jacket is usually without ventilation before World War I, but today comes without ventilation, with side vents, or with middle ventilation. Styles without ventilation are considered more formal, while central vents are the most formal. Petals (usually tapered and scarves) are usually confronted with fine silk with grosgrain or satin weaves, but also western sutras. According to the Black Tie Guide, the collar and collar that peak together are both original and true. The buttons should be covered with the same colored material to the main part of the jacket, which should ideally be self-faced or covered with the same material as the collar. Some high-end single-breasted jackets, both new and vintage, tend to be tightened with front cover links visually similar to cufflinks; this closing method is still common in the UK.
A double-besomed hip bag (the gap) is the only style sufficient to complete a dinner jacket. Flap pockets are not considered appropriate for the formal formalities of formal clothing due to their more bulkier and bulkier designs and are only an attempt by tuxedo manufacturers to save money by using standard setting patterns (although sometimes they will cut the flap pocket edges so that flaps can be inserted or removed if desired). The surom openings can be of self fabric or trimmed with exposed lapel silk, although the classic men's clothing lady Nicholas Antongiavanni points out that for this last touch English "is a sure sign of leased clothing." The dinner jacket should also have a chest pocket to hold a pocket handkerchief, which generally has to face itself rather than covered with silk.
Emily Post, a resident of Tuxedo Park, New York, stated in 1909 that "[Tuxedo] can have a collar or shawl-shaped, in both cases they must have silk, satin or grosgrain facings." He then republished this statement in his 1922 Etiquette , adding that only the right single-breasted jacket is called tuxedo . There is a fashion movement that shows that a man's appearance when wearing a wider and taller collar is superior to a narrower notch collar.
White dinner coats are often used in warm climates. They are ivory instead of pure white, and have a self-pinned flap (ie, made of the same cloth as a jacket) rather than a lapel facing silk. They are generally worn with the same type of clothes and accessories with a black jacket, although turndown collars and belts are preferred over wing or wool collars. Similarly, lapel shawls are more common in white dinner coats. In the United Kingdom, the 20th century etiquette is that white dinner jackets are never worn, even on the hottest days of summer, but are reserved for use abroad. Today, white dinner jackets are often seen at weddings, formal beach events, and high school high schools, in the United States and at some concerts (famous for example the Last Night of prom) in the UK. In tropical climates, such as the Imperial Burma, desert wilderness has historically been used as a less formal color. At one time, a mess (civilian) jacket was also an option in a warmer climate.
It is generally considered inappropriate for a man to take off his jacket during a formal social event, but when the hot weather and humidity dictate, the rank guy (royal family, honored guest) can grant a permit to the man by taking off his jacket. In anticipated hot weather, the Red Sea rig is set in invitations, although the dress is esoteric among civilians, and is specific to certain expatriate communities.
Black butterfly bow
Traditionally, the only suitable neck is a black butterfly tie which is a tie of its own and should always match the collar facing the dinner jacket and braiding the pants layer. The bow tie is tied using a common shoelace, also called a bow node for that reason.
Trousers
Black tie trousers traditionally have no cuff (turn-up in English English) or belt loops. The outer layer is usually decorated with a single silk braid or material that fits the surface of the collar. Traditionally, braces (suspenders), hidden by a vest, are used to support trousers. Belts should not be worn with black trousers. Night trousers can be marginalized or folded at this time; the first crease came into vogue in the 1930s. While the front flat pants are more fashionable today, pleated pants can be considered more comfortable by men who have wider hips and narrow waist.
Waistline
The waist cover should generally be worn as part of the black tie ensemble. Either a low vest cut or belt may be worn, but never both at the same time. Although the British authorities, Debrett, consider that wearing the vest is smart, they no longer regard the waist cover as essential. The American Authority, The Emily Post Institute, considers them an important component of the proper black tie suit. The waist cover does not have to be matched with the color of the wedding theme.
Vest
A low-cut vest should be worn while wearing a single-breasted coat. This vest plays an important part in the delicate minimalism by helping to hide parts of its work by secretly covering the waistband of the pants and the lower edge of the shirt's chest. The vest comes in the form of a richer 'V' or 'U', in a backless or fully supported, double or single breasted version, with or without a collar. A single breasted style usually has three buttons, and double breasted three or four rows. Before World War II, while a black tie was still received, people would wear white vests, along with other details that are now primarily attributed to white ties, such as tight-cut t-shirts. However, this style, although increasingly viewed as a pretense, is still acceptable in the United States. The vest should be made of the same fabric as the traditional (or silver) dinner jacket or the same silk as the jacket (popular) collar. When the vest has a collar, they have to face the same sutra as a jacket; in this case is considered more refined if the body is made of the same fabric as a jacket. The buttons may be self-faced or covered in the same silk with the collar. Vintage vests are sometimes covered with buttons made of onyx or mother of pearl, which is often surrounded by silver or gold settings.
The vest was never worn with a double breasted jacket. Since the style of this jacket never unbuttoned, the waistband of the pants was never seen, and therefore did not need to be covered, although before World War II, the vest edge was often seen between the jacket and the shirt.
Cummerbund
A belt can be worn with a dinner jacket instead of a vest and, although considered a bit less formal, is also true. It looks very good with a jacket dinner collar jacket but can be worn along with a peak collar. The material of the belt should be satin silk, grosgrain (or fail), or barathea to match the bow tie. It features a facing flap, originally used to store theater or opera tickets, and is now considered more decorative than functional. Just like a vest, a belt is not worn with a double breasted jacket.
Since the belt is seen as an extension of the trousers, the color must be the same traditionally, that is to be black. However, the Black Tie Guide supports deep and rich colors as a way of introducing color into monochromatic clothing. Bright colors, as often worn by wedding party members, should be avoided and bow ties should remain black in any case. Some of the higher quality models feature hidden pockets and elastic loops to tie into trousers.
Shirt
Shirts designed to be worn with black ties are called "formal shirts," or "tuxedo shirts" in American English and "shirt shirts" in English English. Traditionally, the shirt is white, has a front part that is marcella or pleated, collar closing, and cuff double (or "french"). At the beginning of the 20th century, a piquà © shirt with removable wing collar and a single cuff like the one worn with a white tie was used, and in the 1960s and 1970s the crumpled bibs were very popular, but no style was often seen today. The wing collar initially disappeared in a black tie after the 1920s when a collar shirt under semi-formal confidentiality was supposed to be frowned upon, but has been popular with American men in a less substantial and inherent form since the 1980s. However, many style experts argue that wing collars should remain a white tie domain for aesthetic reasons. Etiquette maven Miss Manners is one of those who feel that while the bare bowed band is fine in a white-and-white scheme, "men with their black ties visible on their necks look ridiculous."
Although some style authorities consider wing collars to be an acceptable option for black tie shirts, they should not be worn with double cuffs or lip pleats, and are more suitable for a more formal single-breasted collar jacket jacket. They must have good marcella or rigid lips and include stiff cuffs (secured with cuffs), made of the same fabric as the bib; This type of shirt is exactly the same as that worn with white clothing. The collar in this case must be high and rigid, which can be attached or removed. When a complete shirt is worn in this fashion, it must be accompanied by a white marcella vest usually associated with a white tie. Wearing a white tie accessory in this way is regarded by many as a pretense. Debrett does not support the wing collar as it is compatible with the black tie dress code.
The more formal marcella version of the button is tied with matching shirt buttons. This is most often in silver or gold settings, featuring onyx or mother-of-pearl; various geometric shapes are used, such as circles (most commonly for buttons), octagons, or rectangles (most often for cuffs). There is no consistent fashion preference for gold or silver, but buttons with pearl mothers are more formal and therefore often associated with white ties. A soft front fold version should be tightened with a pearl mother button, usually paired with a t-shirt on a separate piece of cloth. As an alternative, the front-fly shirt, which fits both marcella and bib pleats, hides the skirt pocket for a more minimalist look.
There are several types of cufflinks that can be worn with a black tie. The most formal and decorative is a dual panel type, which dresses both sides of the cuff and is connected to a chain or link of metal; this model conceals the mechanism by which the cuff is secured. The most common, and least decorative, is the type of swivel bar; while this is acceptable, they leave the inside of the cuff and the exposed mechanisms that do not fit the formal outfit.
Footwear
The most formal and traditional shoes are patent leather opera shoes (court shoes) adorned with grosgrain arcs. The more popular alternative today is the black Oxford lace boots, on patent leather or calf leather, with a plain round tip. Brogueing or other decorative patterns should not be seen on Black Tie footwear. The matte finish pump is also visible. Shoes are almost always black and patent leather is considered more formal than matte finishing while pumps are considered more formal than lace-ups. Generally considered too informal for black ties is a shoe with an open strap, like Derby shoes ( bluchers in American English). The main alternatives include black button boot (especially for historical purposes only) and Albert monogram slippers that were originally only worn at home. Gucci black leaf litters are also considered an alternative, especially in UK urban settings. Socks are black socks made of wool or fine silk.
Accessories
Most of the etiquette and fashion modes of the current decade suggest to maintain a touch of color and support one color, usually dark; muted red, like maroon, is a traditional choice.
Handkerchief: The linen handkerchief (traditional), silk, or cotton is usually worn in a breast pocket. Although the precedent for the tasteful exception exists, the pocket box is usually white, and should not fit a waist cap or bow tie.
BoutonniÃÆ'¨re: A flower may be worn. The red and white carnations, the blue cornflower, and the rosebud have all been popular at times. In France, boutonniÃÆ'¨re is usually gardenia.
Outerwear: The black tie show does not involve any outerwear and the coat and gloves are no longer considered part of the dress code. However, the etiquette for what is used in public on the way to and from the black tie show is tougher in earlier eras and remains an option: Matching coat is usually black, charcoal, or dark blue, and traditionally Chesterfield style. The guard coat has also been popular, and the lighter coat can be worn in the summer. Historically, Inverness's mantle was also worn. Until the mid-20th century, gloves and scarves were always worn, and sometimes still seen on gray and white silk. White child gloves are never standard with black tie, remain exclusive to a white tie dress.
Hats: The 20th century standard cap for black tie is black Homburg (or midnight blue) in the winter, or a spring and summer straw rower. Fedoras was initially considered too informal but has become more common recently. The top hats were initially worn with black tie, but had been ordered for white tie and morning dress from World War I. The black tie dress does not require a hat today.
Decorations and orders: Military, civil and organizational decorations are usually only worn for formal, formal or diplomatic formal dressing events. Miniature orders and awards are usually worn on the left collar of the jacket, and the badges of the neck, breast star, and belt are worn according to country or organizational specific rules. Unlike in white ties, where decorations are always allowed, dress code will usually give some indication when the decoration should be worn with black tie.
Wristwatch: Regular watches are not worn with formal evening outfits, because timeliness should not be considered a priority. Pocket watch is acceptable.
Black tie is worn for private and public dinners, balls, and parties. At the end of the more formal social spectrum, it largely replaced the more formal white tie. The black tie code is sometimes classified as "semi-formal" in contrast to a "formal" white tie, or as "formal" as opposed to the most "formal" white tie. Again, the code in white tie is now quite rare, provided only for very formal occasions. Black ties are traditionally used only after six o'clock, or after sunset during winter. Black Tie's rough daytime dish is a stroller, which is less formal than a morning dress because (like a black tie) it replaces a suit with a mantle of space. Surprisingly, contrary to the trend seen in evening gowns, less formal strollers are now unbelievably rare, while morning clothes are still relatively common.
When the dress code for an event that begins on or after 6 pm is described as 'formal' without further qualification, the invited person may choose to wear either a black tie or a dark room outfit with a tie.
Opera and ballet
Traditional black ties must be worn for opera although the darkroom suit is also now accepted. In the 21st century, many opera houses in the English-speaking world did not specify a black tie. For example, neither the Royal Opera House nor the Sydney Opera House has a black tie dress code. Black tie is a habit in the opera house of a British country, such as during the Summer Festival in Glyndebourne.
Black tie should also be worn on a ballet or orchestra gala.
Cruise ship
At a formal dinner on a cruise, the dress code will usually be a black tie although dark lounge suits can be worn as a replacement. In 2013 Cunard, noted for her adherence to the formal dress code, loosened her dress standards. In 2015 Cunard needs one from a dinner jacket, dark suit, national official outfit or military uniform for male guests on formal evenings. Similarly, the luxury yacht, Seabourn, sets tuxedos or dark business suits on formal evenings.
Debate
Some universities are debating the community, as in Oxford and Durham doing at least some of their debates in black tie. Educated societies, such as the Royal Aeronautical Society, may also follow similar practices.
Black tie at marriage
In the last few decades, in place of a traditional white tie or morning dress, black tie is increasingly visible in the United States on official wedding day. However, etiquette experts and clothing constantly discourage or condemn the use of black tie for being too informal for marriage, or any event before 19:00, such as Emily Post (1872-1960) and Amy Vanderbilt (1908-1974), which lastly on the grounds that "no man has ever been caught in a church with a tuxedo."
In Britain and throughout Europe, although minorities receive black ties at night receptions, including some Jewish weddings, it is rarely worn at church weddings or civil ceremonies where instead of white ties, morning dress or casual wear is usually preferred. In some places, local variations of traditional white tie tags can be worn, such as Scottish highland dress.
Appropriate clothes form
Clothes mess
For official meals, uniformed service officers and non-commissioned officers often wear messess suits equivalent to civilian black ties and evening dresses. Uniform mess can vary according to each user's branch of armed service, regiment, or corps, but usually includes a short coat of Eton style up to the waist. Some include white shirts, black butterfly ties, and low-cut vests, while others have high collars that tie the neck and high waistcoat. The armed services of several countries have black ties and white ties of the same variant in their outfits.
Red Sea Rig
In the tropics, especially in Western diplomatic and expatriate communities, the Red Sea rig is sometimes worn, where jackets and vests are removed and red belts and trousers with red pipes are worn instead.
Scottish Highland Dress
Scottish Highland dresses are often worn for black-and-white shows, especially in Scottish scrolls and ceilidhs; black-tie versions are more common, even on white tie events. Traditionally, Scottish Scots Highland gowns consist of:
- Black, or other solid colors, west jackets with silver buttons - Doublet Rule, Prince Charlie (coatee), Brian Boru, Braemar, and matching black jacket. There are several opinions about whether Duke of Montrose and Sheriffmuir twins are too formal for a black tie event. The Argyll jacket is a popular alternative choice; However, it should be worn with three button vests rather than a five button vest.
- Miniature medal (if allowed)
- Tartan suit or vest
- Kilt
- White shirt with buttoned shirt, French cuff or barrel, and turn-down collar (wing collar is generally reserved for white ties in England)
- Black butterfly tie or white jabot lace
- Evening dress brogues
- Full-dress kilt hose (diced, tartan or off-white)
- Silk flashes or garter ties
- Dress in sporrons with silver chains
- Black, silver sgian dubh
- Dirk (optional)
- Hedgehogs with symbol badges (just fit outside the door)
The traditional Black-tie Lowland dress is a variant of a normal black tie that includes tartan trews rather than regular pants and may include a matching skirt jacket as a substitute for a dinner jacket. Trews are often worn in summer and warm.
See also
- Portal mode
References
Further reading
- Apparel Arts magazine , fashion and style accounts of the 1930s; some issues are more relevant than others, as reproduced with comments in The London Lounge : Vol II. No. II and Vol. III (numbering: London Lounge , not original)
- Flusser, Alan (2002). Dressing the Man: Mastering the art of Permanent Fashion . New York: HarperCollins. ISBN: 0-06-019144-9.
- The Emily Post Institute provides details of traditional categories on the progress of formality in dress for men & amp; woman.
- Debrett is the most prominent British authority in manners, which deals with the elements of a black tie.
- Life, Tailored has a guide for men on how to dress for any black tie event.
External links
- Media related to Black tie in Wikimedia Commons
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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