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John Redfern/Redfern & Sons/Redfern Ltd. | Lily Absinthe
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Redfern & amp; Children (later Redfern Ltd ), is a British sewing company founded by John Redfern (1820-1895) in Cowes on the Isle of Wight that evolved into the leading European couture house (active: 1855-1932; 1936-1940). In the early 1890s, the business had branches in London, Edinburgh, Paris, and New York. The Paris extension operated as a couture establishment while the other branches functioned primarily as tailors and importers.


Video Redfern (couture)



History

John Redfern (November 11, 1820 - November 22, 1895) started out as a tailor in Cowes in 1855, following in the footsteps of his father, as well as John Redfern, who first opened Cowes's clothing store in 1811. With the support of the sons of Ernest Redfern and Charles Poynter Redfern (1853-1929), John Redfern opened a sewing house in London and Paris in 1881, followed by two stores in New York in 1884-85, one for sewing, another for feathers.

The Redferns are credited with making special chic outfits for women. Previously retreating to utilitarian clothing, dresses and specially designed suits, such as those introduced by Redfern, quickly became a craze among sports nobles while on holiday in Cowes, spreading immediately to Paris. In the 1870s the Redfern suit or dress gown quickly became the most recognizable fashion of fashionable clothing. In this way, the Redfern label is basically the first high-end sports brand. In the early 1890s, largely due to the patronage of British and European royalties, the Redfern house in Paris has evolved into a full-scale couture business. Ernest directs the London and New York branches, while Charles, and later, John Poynter Redfern, runs a Paris salon. From 1892, when the sons of Redfern took control of the business, the house was known as Redfern Ltd.

The American outlet company, however, did not prove successful and was eventually partially sustained by commercial sides for a ready-made corset. Houses in New York also do not function as couture establishments but as importers of other Paris fashion brands sold with their own products. Like a Paris salon, the New York branch was originally advertised as a woman's sewing concern. The first UK-based clothing entrepreneur who opened a full-scale American branch in the US and enjoyed a long success there was Lucile in the 1910s and 20s.

It was in 1871 that the first Redfern house expanded its sewing business to include the design and sale of silk dresses and mourning clothes. But it is a specially designed outfit for women who ride horses, play tennis, and go on yachting that remains a Redfern specialty. Though aimed at a particular sport, customized gowns and clothing are increasingly adopted as everyday wear by influential Redfern clients. For example, in 1879 the house created a simple jersey traveling apparel for Lillie Langtry, a famous beauty and actress known as "Jersey Lily," a name derived from her birthplace in Jersey. The dress was widely copied and remained a favorite on the Redfern line for years. In 1888, Redfern was officially named Dressmaker By Royal Appointment for Her Majesty the Queen and H.R.H. Welsh Princess.

Redfern Ltd is credited with helping to popularize the high-spirited style, called the Greek style in 1908. In the early 1910s, the design of the house was often depicted in Gazette du Bon Ton along with six other prominent Parisian couturier - Cheruit , Doeuillet, Doucet, Paquin, Poiret, and Worth. In 1916, Redfern created the first officially appointed women's uniform for the Red Cross.

Redfern's headquarters in Paris closed in 1932, reopened briefly in 1936, and closed again in 1940.

Maps Redfern (couture)



Gallery

Desain Redfern seperti yang diilustrasikan dalam La Gazette du Bon Ton , 1912-14.


Redfern Stock Photos & Redfern Stock Images - Alamy
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Bacaan lebih lanjut

  • Utara, Susan (2008) "John Redfern and Sons, 1847-1892" Kostum 42:  pp. 145-68
  • Utara, Susan (2009) "Redfern Limited, 1892 hingga 1940" Kostum 43:  pp. 85-108

Runway & Backstage Photography - Australian Bridal Fashion Week
src: orlandosydney.com


Referensi




Tautan eksternal

  • Gaun malam Redfern di Staten Island Historical Society Koleksi Online Database

Source of the article : Wikipedia

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